Sunday, June 10, 2007

Hola mis amigos! Estoy en La Paz!

So it turns out that I flew in on a holiday, something to do with Christ, though it seems just an excuse to party. Anyhow, I caught a taxi into La Paz, I´m staying at the Pact Bolivia landscapes apartment in La Zona Sur, which seems to be a more posh neighborhood.

The city is stunning-- riding down from the airport on the rim of the valley I had a full view of the city, houses spilling down the sides of the canyon. There´s basically only one road out, which I´m told is frequently blocked by violent protesters, etc. Though since the election of the first indigenous president, Evo Morales, people have been trying to give the guy a chance because he´s supporting indigenous rights. And, being a former coca grower (cocalero), he supports the industry, and attempts to clarify the dinstinction between using the plants for coca tea and for cocaine. Coca tea just tastes like seaweed to me, and I certainly didn´t get no buzz.

So, orientation begins on Monday, and then I´ll learn which project I´m assigned to. They´re putting us in male-female pairs, which seems a good idea for safety. I was exploring El Prado (downtown area) alone the other day and I experienced the disgusting tourist-theft ploy. So, someone spits on you, and this is supposed to distract you from guarding your valuables. So I´m wiping the shit off my ear when I feel this hand take my camera out of its little bag. Instinctively I turn toward the person, who turns out to be a middle aged woman wearing a ragged grey t-shirt and pants, and I scold her indignantly:¨Senorita, es lo mio. Damelo!¨ She reveals my little silver camera from where she had hid it underneath a crumpled plastic bag. I snatch it back and walk away, and she just sort of takes a few steps in the other direction, confused. I suppose having been a high school teacher comes in handy sometimes. Good thing no weapons were involved.

Otherwise, things in the city have been tame. I´m getting used to Bolivian spanish, though I find the women difficult to understand. So far everyone has been quite kind, though getting a straight answer out of anyone is mammoth task. I use the survey approach: I ask five people the same question (AKA where can I buy a plug adaptor?) and then I take the mathematical average of their responses and follow that advice. People don´t say take a right or left here, instead they just say go up or down (it is in a canyon, after all), but this vague directionaly advice can prove confusing to a newcomer like myself. Actually, finding a plug required asking at least ten different people in various storefronts complete with hanging wires, strange metal pieces and other electrical gear. In the end, I found the right adaptor by coincidence, I saw it hanging in the open window of a closet-sized ferrateria (sp?) operation.

I hope you all are well-- I would love to hear how everyone´s summers are going if you get a chance. I´ll try to give another update when I get my assignment, and before I head off for el campo.
Besos,
kath

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